I always love Prabal Gurung’s showmanship. There is a beauty beyond the clothing, a psychology to his army of women marching toward the light. His spring collection continues into those depths through layers and folds, textures and patterns that lead your eye endlessly in a dance inspired by the natural beauty of the Nepalese sky and spirituality of the Himalayas. Through his designs may at first glance look very feminine with the flick of ostrich feathers or sweep of chiffon, at closer examination there is a strength to the Gurung girl, seen through her razor backs, belting details or harness like bodices. According to Prabal, this is how he plays on the juxtaposition of traditional Nepalese dressing from childhood memories and androgynous American sportswear that lives outside his New York City studio walls today.
What we see and what we seem are but a dream, a dream within a dream…
What we saw was a collection that felt like hazy summer days in the countryside, frolicking through fields and exploring what lies around the next corner.
Young girls came down the runway in frocks that managed to balance a vintage and modern vibe, with pearl and crystal beading on brightly colored fabrics. Dreamy pinks and silvers, lightweight organza, and waists cinched with satin ribbon brought a sense of Edwardian romance.
Jenny Packham has once again created an entire scene in our minds, a dream for us to live in as we watch her clothes drift by, our dream within a dream…
And you never know when a duchess might show up in one of these gowns…
Every piece tells a textured story…
The story is of an urban traveler…a woman trekking across the world, finding beauty everywhere she goes: in the swirling dust of the Australian Outback, the golden plains of Africa at sunrise, the red clays of the American Southwest. The journey has a palette of dusty reds, browns, and golds wrapped in the open expanse of blue summer skies.
The result of this voyage is a collection that is perfect for summer…
The pieces are earthy and sensual, draped for real women’s bodies to highlight our beautiful femininity, regardless of size or shape. What I loved most is how realistic and supremely wearable they were without losing any sense of style or artistry. This season was full of artisanal beauty, with hand-blocked prints and hand-beaded embroideries, which only added to the grounded sophistication.
This season our New York woman goes back to the earth with Donna Karan…
Fashion Week is always a special time for me: though busy and intense, it’s a week of celebrating beauty, creativity, and innovation. And there’s nothing more special than seeing a friend debut on the runway…
And what a debut it was.
The spring/summer 2014 collection of Nonoo was inspired by artist Gerard Richter, who uses an incredible technique involving photography, projection, paint, and a squeegee to make slightly blurred yet stunning artworks. The designs on the fabrics emulated that blur, coupled with deconstructed tailoring to create a powerful and feminine look. Nonoo’s woman is intelligent and active – and her clothing is stylish without fail.
It was love at first sight when I met Misha at her presentation last year – not only for her beautiful collection, but also for her charm and energy. Our friendship has led to some gorgeous creations and I can’t wait to see what comes next for her.
Congratulations to Misha and best of luck in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Competition!
“It’s not about the woman, or her age, or her body type. It’s about her attitude. It’s about the way she carries herself.”
– Josep Font
DELPOZO this season makes me thrilled to be a woman. Josep’s muses hold themselves with a certain elegance, an air of je ne sais quoi, while wearing some of the most perfectly crafted clothes I have ever seen in modern day. The seamless corsets that support airy, weightless-looking feminine tops blend perfectly into incredible volumed skirts that make me fantasize about laying in fields in the south of France.
While the clothes at times change the silhouette of a woman’s body, they also celebrate our lines and curves in a way we haven’t seen so often in recent times. I love how the high-waisted pants emphasize the small of a woman’s back, or how one can revel in their décolletage with an off-the-shoulder top.
Not only would I wear everything from this collection, I would love to live in the painterly world Josep Font has created, the masterpiece that is DELPOZO.
My relationship with Prabal Gurung goes back quite a ways now: from the CFDA incubator to the successful fashion name we all look forward to at NYFW. Each season, his show is one to look forward to as more of an experience than a runway of looks, and today was no exception. When the entire collection of girls lined up to start the show behind plastic walls, my entire body had goosebumps. Like a beautifully choreographed fashion ballet, the girls stepped out one by one into our world, just long enough to see the translucent look of the heels, Swarovski crystal beading on the gowns, and the surprising and fascinating cuts Prabal is known for. To me, these women look like modern day Barbie dolls, standing behind the plastic in their cotton candy colors and bright comic book lips…but the kind of Barbie who owns her own flat, negotiates her own deals, and picks up the check because she’s somebody in the world.
What a way to start off NYFW. In one of those Soho lofts, the kind we all imagine we will live in one day when we move to New York, designer Jason Wu made my 90s spaghetti strap, slinky sheer beading dreams come true with his spring / summer 2014 collection. If this is what next year looks like then I look forward to the sunlight sparkling off our tops, revealing our legs though long sheer draping and exposing our backs – one of the most beautiful parts of the female form. Jason dresses a woman who is not afraid to be sexy in the most sophisticated way. After the show he said, “I wanted to let the body do its job and not do a lot of manipulation to the silhouette“. Looking at the collection all together now, why would you?…