A True Love Story Never Ends…

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There is a place tucked away in the South of France on a plateau hidden between the Pyrenees mountains that has captivated my imagination… it is called Chateau de Gudanes. The past two years I have run through her echoed halls, wondered her wild grounds and fallen asleep to dreams by candlelight. It was with great pleasure to create this video with Kevin Burg for the Waters family to bring to life the arrival of a new book about the Chateau so that we may all remember what it is like to believe in fairytales… 

See a behind the scenes of how we created and edited this here

Château de Gudanes

Château de Gudanes is an 18th-century neoclassical Château built on the ruins of a medieval castle nestled amongst the pyrenees in the Southwest of France and currently under restoration by the Waters family. Each summer they open the Château doors to a series of workshops from cooking in the cuisine, to floral design, restoration, and the art of the brocante (French antiquing). For two years now I have spent a a week each summer at the cooking workshops, first run by Julie Marr and most recently by Craig Likefelt where I learned my now go-to salad dressing, a very fruity take on gazpacho, and a seriously mind-blowing good omelette among so much more. 

Karina Waters, the visionary behind saving this abandoned chateau is the Alice in Wonderland guide to your stay and one of the most fascinating women to talk to. You can imagine, she being Australian and not completely fluent in French, how many endless stories she has facing the French bureaucracy, learning the rules of restoration on an historic chateau, the time the chateau caught on fire, surviving winter alone without modern heating, when she set off fireworks for Bastille Day and the police showed up, and on and on… and then in the most effortless mad hatter whim she puts together these magical dinner parties with over flowing champagne coups, classical music echoing throughout the chateau walls, the glow from the candles illuminating out of the open french windows into the night sky to the distant sound of laughter and cheers.

I’ll never forget seeing her drag a dead plum tree through the chateau into the music room to prop up on a table as a “tree of gratitude” where each dinner guest wrote what they were thankful for from the experience at the chateau and hung it on the beautifully bare branches for each of us to read. Or the time we had dinner in what once was the library and she pointed out that the mounted goat head set as decor on the banquet was the actual goat we were eating for dinner, killed and prepared by the local French women from the village below who beamed with pride from sharing their regional mountain traditional food.

Though France offers many exquisite Château experiences, this one is quite different. It’s raw.

I like to describe it as the outside is in and the inside is out. The chateau breathes with the mountains it is surrounded by, the cats and dog come and go as they please, as do the vines, and the wind and the rain, and the guests who are lucky enough to stay here for a brief untouchable moment in time. But what makes this place truly unique is that ninety percent of the chateau is without electricity. This means candle-lit dinners, candle-lit walks to your bedroom at night, falling asleep to the sounds of the old chateau shutters and trout steam below. It was in the purest sense of the word, magical. How does that work practically? The main chateau kitchen and its two adjoining rooms have both electricity set up with charging stations and wifi and a fourth room across the hall with electricity is a communal bathroom with 5 toilet rooms and three showrooms, not unlike an adult summer camp. The rest of the chateau is unwired. The rest of the chateau is candle lit romance.

What I love about this place is the layers of history caked on top of each other. Built on the ruins of a castle from the middle ages you can still run your hands over the natural stone from the earth they carved the original foundation from. No room in the castle is off limits giving you free range to explore and let your imagination ponder different ways of life throughout time. The center of the chateau is home to a petite chapel with a vaulted ceiling decorated by hand-painted gold stars shining on a midnight blue sky. Below the main floor is the medieval kitchen, torture chamber, jail, and slaughter rooms for the animals among other things. I even found a once functioning darkroom for photography. There was a library room, a music room for ballroom dancing, a champagne room they used to bring ice down from the mountain to put in the marble bowl for parties, and endless bedrooms, sitting rooms, terraces, and more. The attic is home to the bats which in my first year there liked to pay me nightly visits through my open bedroom window (I like to let in the cool, fresh mountain air) and circle around my room for a few minutes while I stayed motionless in bed with the antique monogrammed French linen sheets pulled up to my nose watching before swooping back out into the night sky. I LOVED it….

It was, and remains in my memories, a true fairytale.

Chateau wardrobe include designs by Brock CollectionKalita Official, Needle and Thread London, Three Graces London, Luxe Provence, Thierry ColsonSamuel Snider, Behida Dolic, Jacquemus, Rawson, Molly Goddard and Zimmerman with these French beauty products all carried to the Chateau in the Sweetheart collection by Steamline Luggage

Domaine des Hauts de Loire

Nestled quietly between the vineyards of the lush Loire Valley just two hours outside Paris is Domaine des Hauts de Loire. Once upon a time this historic Chateau functioned as a prestigious hunting lodge but has since been turned into a true tranquil escape made for a princess. From the swans to the sweeping forest surrounding the chateau it is the perfect place to be charmed by nature in the comfort of French luxury. The property has two restaurants on site, a formal gastronomic with one of the most spectacular meals I have had in France, and a modern day bistro serving updated twists on classic comfort food. Many of the vegetables come from the garden on the property or from local artisan purveyors. 

If you choose to venture outside the property you will find it is perfectly situated between some of the highlights of the Loire Valley such as the beautiful river crossing Chateau de Chenonceau and the world renowned modern art and sculpture collection of the The Chateau de Chaumont-sur-Loire

Perhaps though, the highlight for me was taking private French cooking lessons at the property with two Michelin star chef, Rémy Giraud, who runs both kitchens at the domaine. It was such a treat, such a special moment and I took away with me recipes I will create forever! You can see and learn the recipes I shared here

An easy escape from Paris by car or train for those seeking some nature and rest in France’s Garden of Eden. 

Monet’s Garden

What a wonderful, wild experience it is to walk inside a painting and to see the world through the eyes of an artist. An early morning train from Paris, a walk through a quiet French town, and then you arrive into the pallet of Monet‘s mind. 

“My wish is to stay always like this, living quietly in a corner of nature.”- Claude Monet

“I perhaps owe having become a painter to flowers.” -Claude Monet

Hôtel du Marc

For nearly two centuries, Hôtel du Marc has been a private oasis for guests of the champagne house, Veuve Clicquot. Constructed in 1840, this historic building in the heart of Reims, France has survived two world wars, the first leaving visual pockmarks on the building’s façades. While having been in the family’s possession since 1840 the maison underwent a four year renovation project to update the home with both traditional grandeur and modern day connivence and story telling. A perfect example of this is the ombré carpet on the grand staircase which is made to symbolize the wine making process from the chalky soil of the Champagne region of France to the deep burgundy red color of the pinot noir grapes used to create the house’s signature yellow label brut champagne. 

I found myself here commissioned with Kevin Burg to create videos for the brand in celebration of La Grande Dame which pays homage to the “Grande Dame de la Champagne,” Madame Clicquot who took over her husband’s wine making business at the age of 27 when he left her widowed in 1804. She turned a humble wine making venture into one of the first brands to develop the champagne technique and the rest is history. 

Though it bears “hotel” in the name, sadly it is not in the traditional sense of the word. The property is used privately by Veuve Clicquot to host friends, events, press, and business partners of the label so you can imagine how special it was to step inside such an exclusive place at the heart of the brand. 

You can see the short videos we created and get a more intimate peek inside here

 

Rodin Museum

You don’t have to think about Rodin to feel Rodin. Perhaps, even, it is what you feel first that stays with you after. How can someone sculpt the thoughts of man, the memories of love, the history of humanity with seemingly such ease?… take a walk through the Rodin Museum in Paris on a sparkling afternoon and find yourself haunted by the beauty of his immortalized humanity… 

See all my Paris stories here

Paris Eats

Eating in France is serious. If navigated correctly, it can reach beyond the plate into richer memories, inspired creativity and greater understanding of the world. When the French eat they take their time and above all they share their passion for flavors, quality, technique and tradition.  These are some of my favorite spots in an ever evolving guide to Paris.

Practical information for eating in Paris 

The French like to eat at two times in the day and not in-between. This was something that took me a long time to get used to coming from New York and having access to everything 24/7. Lunch is typically served between 12pm – 2:30pm and dinner between 7pm – 9pm. Some places are open later but don’t expect to have much luck if you like to dine at 10:30pm or a late lunch around 3. Of course there are exceptions but in general as a rule of thumb plan to eat at 1pm and 8pm.

Reservations

Another important tip, you must make reservations. Most places in Paris are quite small and as a culture they only order the amount of food they will serve so they like to know how many seatings they have. I have a few places on my list that are more casual that do not require a reservation, otherwise, plan ahead. The websites are always clear on their policy if reservations are needed or not.

Tipping

Additionally, you do not have to tip in France unless, of course, the service was wonderful and you want to give a gesture of appreciation. If you do tip, do not add it to the credit card, leave it in cash on the table. I found this blog post about tipping very useful. And for god’s sake, do not rush through your meal. The French will spend a good few hours over dinner and wine. Enjoy it, savor it. Your waiter is not being rude for not asking you if you need anything or rushing out your dishes, the French let you be and your meal blossoms before you in due time. Your waiter will also not rush you out, so feel free to to enjoy your dining experience and once you are ready to leave flag down your waiter and ask for the check, “l’addition, S’il vous plaît”. Lastly, in Paris, everyone speaks english so don’t be scared, though as custom you should always greet everyone when you walk in with a “Bonjour” and you can never use “merci” enough.

My favorite restaurants in Paris

Le Chateaubriand~ Perhaps this is my number one restaurant in Paris. This is where I dined on my birthday last night. A tasting menu of natural wines and improvisational cooking that tickles your brain all while being set in a warm, unpretentious old French space

Le Clarence ~ I went here for my birthday last year, it is incredibly beautiful and romantic. Set in an old mansion, the lamb was perhaps the best I have ever had. 

Fragments~ My favorite coffee spot, great breakfast foods, PERFECT cappuccino, cozy. It’s quite small so don’t be afraid if you have to wait a bit for a table, I’ve never had to wait longer than 5mins… or just don’t try to do here during fashion week when all the New Yorkers are in town. It’s my favorite place to spend a rainy afternoon reading. 

Candelaria~If I’m in Paris, I’m stopping by here for lunch to get my major taco fix! It’s the only place in France to get a “real” taco IMO. It’s a speakeasy type situation, you can either eat at the super casual taco counter or make your way past the kitchen through a door which leads to a pretty little bar / dining room. I only go for lunch when it’s chill but if you’re young it’s a great night spot where the backroom is for drinking and hanging out with the cool kids. 

Dersou~ One of my favorite modern eats of Paris, it offers only a tasting menu with cocktail pairing of asian fusion world cuisine. It’s the perfect date spot you’re a foodie. 

Double Dragon~ Absolutely LOVE this place! We ordered almost everything on the menu and it was all to die for, especially the crispy fried chicken which will haunt my dreams until the next trip to Paris. Huge benefit to this spot, they do not take reservations (something the French are annoyingly strict about) so you can just show up when you feel the need for really, really, REALLY good asian food. 

Les Chouettes~ Really beautiful interior, perfect place to have dinner when you want something nicer but not “fancy”. Wonderful fish dishes, sophisticated all around. 

Treize~ BISCUITS. Literally Charleston, southern American biscuits in the heart of France. I love their “not fried chicken” and bloody mary. The woman who started it is from Charleston and is always there to greet you from behind the kitchen with a warm “HEY Y’ALL”. But seriously, the hot out of the oven biscuits are life.

La Mary Celeste~ I’ve actually only been here a few times for cocktails but it’s a pretty little candle lit bar. I hear the food is good. 

East Mamma~ Italian, very hip, designed decor, a place you would expect to find in New York. I wasn’t blow away by the food but it’s a fun experience. It is part of Big Mamma’s group which has a handful of cute places all over Paris each with their own vibes. 

Septime~ Ugh, I haven’t actually been here yet but I know so many people who have gone and loved it and it is the #1 recommended place to eat in Paris. It’s been, for me at least, impossible to get a reservation because I don’t plan my trips three months in advance. They got the sustainable restaurant award and came in #35 of the 50 best restaurants. They also have a wine bar, Septime La Cave, and a seafood spot, Clamato.

L’Aprege~ Really one of the most special restaurants in the world, the kind of meal you don’t forget. Watch Chef’s Table on Alain Passard then you will understand why. Also, I still love my dress from that night

Clown Bar~ Great natural wine menu, small but adventurous seasonal menu makes this a spot for the foodies and young chef’s of Paris. It’s next to the old circus and supposedly was were the clowns hung out to drink back in the day. I don’t know about that but I do know the old, painted clown bar and mirrors are magical. 

La Buvette~ The kind of natural wine bar and small plates the foodies of Paris eat at and my friend Caroline‘s favorite spot. 

Verjus~ Perhaps one of my favorite date spots in Paris. Fresh, smart, seasonal food, cozy simple setting. 

Ellsworth~You go for the fried chicken

Carbon~ New spot in Paris opened by a woman from Argentina, this is all about wood fired cooking in a really beautiful distressed French bistro setting. 

Le Servan~ Foodie spot! Inventive seasonal menu, modern and cool, Americans in the know and cool young French chefs love this spot. *closed on weekends (isn’t that amazing?)* 

Kinugawa~ SUSHI!!! This is my new favorite go-to sushi spot, I wish I could eat the entire menu. Must have reservations. 

Balagan~Also new to the scene, Israeli cuisine in a sleek, modern, cool setting. I loved all the starters. 

Miss Bánh mì~ My favorite lunch spot! Very quick and casual and sooooo delicious. 

Derriere~ cool atmosphere. I like to eat in the courtyard when the weather is nice. 

Hotel Costes~ Really beautiful, balances old world glamour with modern cool. Has a wonderful dining courtyard in the center of the restaurant. Food is excellent but the best aspect to this place is that that serve mid-day and late at night when everything else is closed. It’s great for people watching, very chic, hip, fashion crowd. 

Ralph’s~ In the Ralph Lauren mansion, this place is so beautiful. I love it in the summer to eat outside in the courtyard listening to old jazz, very romantic. 

Le Grand Véfour~ Perhaps the most recommended Paris restaurant for special occasions and it’s easy to see why from the historic and beautiful setting to the very best of Parisian table service. The food was some of the most proper, exquisite food I have ever eaten. 

Le Timbre~ Very beautiful, fresh, modern French food in a cozy unpretentious setting. 

Hotel Amour Restaurant~ I love this place for brunch! Seriously the best bread and butter in all of Paris IMO.

Le Dome du Marais~ Pretty. 

Cafe Marly~ I like to eat on the terrace here for lunch and enjoy the view of the Louvre and Eiffel Tower. They do a lot of turnover because of the location so don’t expect attentive or friendly service but they get the job done and the views are wonderful. 

Relay of the Entrecote~ These are all over Paris and it’s the same experience no matter which one you go to and they only serve one thing, steak and fries, and it’s perfect. My dream is to be able to make their steak sauce! No reservations, you just line up outside, the line moves quickly. 

114 Faubourg~ Your typical fancy Michelin Star place but I still dream about the salad I had here. 

Buvette~ Cute little spot 

Les Fines Gueules~ I have been going to this romantic little spot for years. Seasonal chalkboard menu, amazing wine cave, perfect spot for dinner during the week. 

Monsieur Bleu~Very sophisticated chic spot with an incredible view of the Eiffel Tower. A see-and-be-seen spot, lots of politicians, fashion people, and French celebrities here. 

Claus Paris~ It’s kind of the “it” breakfast place in Paris, at least the cool Americans think so. 

Du Pain et Des Idées~ a truly traditional Paris bakery that is magnifique! Real foodies talk about this place as if it is holy. 

La Gambette à Pain~ Considered one of the best bakeries in Paris, worth the journey for to taste authentic French breads made from organic ancient grains. This article explains it all. 

Auberge Bressane~ Two things, cream chicken and soufflé. 

Frenchie~ Everybody loves Frenchie. I’ve actually never been but I want to go but everyone loves it so I feel good about that. 

Le Dauphin~ Great wine bar and tapas, very foodie culture, can get really crowded late at night. 

Le Ruisseau~ I love to come here late at night, a very hole in the wall burger joint that is to die for. You can also order to go if there is a line.

Cafe Charlot~ Cute bistro, hip fashion crowd. 

Tomo~ Great Japanese bakery, wonderful Matcha as well. 

Scaramouche~ Icecream from Provence! 

Jacques Genin~ Wonderful, special chocolates made in house from the highest quality ingredients. 

For drinks only:

Bar Hemingway~ For history alone you have to do this at least once in Paris. Cocktails come with a rose in your glass and it’s just all so glamorous. 

Caveau de la Huchette ~ Amazing jazz club in a cave, perfect place to listen to live music, sip a martini and watch great dancers sway to the tunes. This was the place featured in La-La-Land.

Ballroom du Beef Club~ Underground speakeasy, the unmarked entrance is next door (to the left) of Beef Club. You go in, you go down the stairs and into a very 1920s candle lit champagne and cocktail lounge

Little Red Door~ Cute, cozy little cocktail spot with really interesting house drinks. 

Hoppy Corner~ New to Paris, great craft brew selection 

Cafe de Flore~ I’m putting this in the drinks section because I’ve done both eating and drinking here and I found the food abysmal I guess because it’s so overwhelmed with a high turnover of tourists they don’t have to try? … I think the champagne is over priced and the service is abrasive. However, I do think it is a wonderful spot to have afternoon tea if you can score a spot outside or in the window because the people-watching is fabulous and the Instagram with the Cafe de Flore logo is timeless. 

Coutume Coffee~ A nice sized coffee shop for Paris with really great cappuccinos and a real breakfast / lunch menu! 

Angelina~ Another insanely tourist spot but it has to be said, their hot chocolate is the best in the world and everyone should experience it at least once. Tip, I prefer the one at Versailles. 

L’Etoile d’Or– Supposed to be the best candy store / chocolate shop in Paris! 

Recommended places from people I trust I have not tried yet but are on my list:

Vivant (reservation) or Deivant (bar without reservation) // Petrelle // Astrance // Comice // Clover // Merci-Merci // Au Passage // The Bocca della Verita // Bistrot les Papilles // Chez La Vieille // DAROCO // Lou Lou // Papillon // Jules Verne // QUINSOU // MELT // Guy Savoy // The Grand Restaurant Jean-Francois Piege // La Scene // Mustache // Hero // Cafe Oberkampf // Cantine California //  Sushi B // JIN sushi // Yam T’cha // Okuda // Cafe de la Nouvelle Mairie// Le Verre Volé // L’etiquette // Elmer // Pontochoux // Robert et Louise // Bouillon Chartier // L’Avant Comptoir // TOMY&Co // Lasserre // La Bourse la Vie // Le Gabriel // Rech // Lapérouse // Fichon // Blé Surcé // Rose Bakery // Cibus  // Le Grand Colbert // Poliane (bakery) // Fish la Boissonerie// Wild & the Moon // Chez Omar // Ferdi // Les Enfants du Marche // Le Rigmarole

Did I miss something? I’d love your recommendations in the comments on this post