Rodin Museum

You don’t have to think about Rodin to feel Rodin. Perhaps, even, it is what you feel first that stays with you after. How can someone sculpt the thoughts of man, the memories of love, the history of humanity with seemingly such ease?… take a walk through the Rodin Museum in Paris on a sparkling afternoon and find yourself haunted by the beauty of his immortalized humanity… 

See all my Paris stories here

Paris Eats

Eating in France is serious. If navigated correctly, it can reach beyond the plate into richer memories, inspired creativity and greater understanding of the world. When the French eat they take their time and above all they share their passion for flavors, quality, technique and tradition.  These are some of my favorite spots in an ever evolving guide to Paris.

Practical information for eating in Paris 

The French like to eat at two times in the day and not in-between. This was something that took me a long time to get used to coming from New York and having access to everything 24/7. Lunch is typically served between 12pm – 2:30pm and dinner between 7pm – 9pm. Some places are open later but don’t expect to have much luck if you like to dine at 10:30pm or a late lunch around 3. Of course there are exceptions but in general as a rule of thumb plan to eat at 1pm and 8pm.

Reservations

Another important tip, you must make reservations. Most places in Paris are quite small and as a culture they only order the amount of food they will serve so they like to know how many seatings they have. I have a few places on my list that are more casual that do not require a reservation, otherwise, plan ahead. The websites are always clear on their policy if reservations are needed or not.

Tipping

Additionally, you do not have to tip in France unless, of course, the service was wonderful and you want to give a gesture of appreciation. If you do tip, do not add it to the credit card, leave it in cash on the table. I found this blog post about tipping very useful. And for god’s sake, do not rush through your meal. The French will spend a good few hours over dinner and wine. Enjoy it, savor it. Your waiter is not being rude for not asking you if you need anything or rushing out your dishes, the French let you be and your meal blossoms before you in due time. Your waiter will also not rush you out, so feel free to to enjoy your dining experience and once you are ready to leave flag down your waiter and ask for the check, “l’addition, S’il vous plaît”. Lastly, in Paris, everyone speaks english so don’t be scared, though as custom you should always greet everyone when you walk in with a “Bonjour” and you can never use “merci” enough.

My favorite restaurants in Paris

Le Chateaubriand~ Perhaps this is my number one restaurant in Paris. This is where I dined on my birthday last night. A tasting menu of natural wines and improvisational cooking that tickles your brain all while being set in a warm, unpretentious old French space

Le Clarence ~ I went here for my birthday last year, it is incredibly beautiful and romantic. Set in an old mansion, the lamb was perhaps the best I have ever had. 

Fragments~ My favorite coffee spot, great breakfast foods, PERFECT cappuccino, cozy. It’s quite small so don’t be afraid if you have to wait a bit for a table, I’ve never had to wait longer than 5mins… or just don’t try to do here during fashion week when all the New Yorkers are in town. It’s my favorite place to spend a rainy afternoon reading. 

Candelaria~If I’m in Paris, I’m stopping by here for lunch to get my major taco fix! It’s the only place in France to get a “real” taco IMO. It’s a speakeasy type situation, you can either eat at the super casual taco counter or make your way past the kitchen through a door which leads to a pretty little bar / dining room. I only go for lunch when it’s chill but if you’re young it’s a great night spot where the backroom is for drinking and hanging out with the cool kids. 

Dersou~ One of my favorite modern eats of Paris, it offers only a tasting menu with cocktail pairing of asian fusion world cuisine. It’s the perfect date spot you’re a foodie. 

Double Dragon~ Absolutely LOVE this place! We ordered almost everything on the menu and it was all to die for, especially the crispy fried chicken which will haunt my dreams until the next trip to Paris. Huge benefit to this spot, they do not take reservations (something the French are annoyingly strict about) so you can just show up when you feel the need for really, really, REALLY good asian food. 

Les Chouettes~ Really beautiful interior, perfect place to have dinner when you want something nicer but not “fancy”. Wonderful fish dishes, sophisticated all around. 

Treize~ BISCUITS. Literally Charleston, southern American biscuits in the heart of France. I love their “not fried chicken” and bloody mary. The woman who started it is from Charleston and is always there to greet you from behind the kitchen with a warm “HEY Y’ALL”. But seriously, the hot out of the oven biscuits are life.

La Mary Celeste~ I’ve actually only been here a few times for cocktails but it’s a pretty little candle lit bar. I hear the food is good. 

East Mamma~ Italian, very hip, designed decor, a place you would expect to find in New York. I wasn’t blow away by the food but it’s a fun experience. It is part of Big Mamma’s group which has a handful of cute places all over Paris each with their own vibes. 

Septime~ Ugh, I haven’t actually been here yet but I know so many people who have gone and loved it and it is the #1 recommended place to eat in Paris. It’s been, for me at least, impossible to get a reservation because I don’t plan my trips three months in advance. They got the sustainable restaurant award and came in #35 of the 50 best restaurants. They also have a wine bar, Septime La Cave, and a seafood spot, Clamato.

L’Aprege~ Really one of the most special restaurants in the world, the kind of meal you don’t forget. Watch Chef’s Table on Alain Passard then you will understand why. Also, I still love my dress from that night

Clown Bar~ Great natural wine menu, small but adventurous seasonal menu makes this a spot for the foodies and young chef’s of Paris. It’s next to the old circus and supposedly was were the clowns hung out to drink back in the day. I don’t know about that but I do know the old, painted clown bar and mirrors are magical. 

La Buvette~ The kind of natural wine bar and small plates the foodies of Paris eat at and my friend Caroline‘s favorite spot. 

Verjus~ Perhaps one of my favorite date spots in Paris. Fresh, smart, seasonal food, cozy simple setting. 

Ellsworth~You go for the fried chicken

Carbon~ New spot in Paris opened by a woman from Argentina, this is all about wood fired cooking in a really beautiful distressed French bistro setting. 

Le Servan~ Foodie spot! Inventive seasonal menu, modern and cool, Americans in the know and cool young French chefs love this spot. *closed on weekends (isn’t that amazing?)* 

Kinugawa~ SUSHI!!! This is my new favorite go-to sushi spot, I wish I could eat the entire menu. Must have reservations. 

Balagan~Also new to the scene, Israeli cuisine in a sleek, modern, cool setting. I loved all the starters. 

Miss Bánh mì~ My favorite lunch spot! Very quick and casual and sooooo delicious. 

Derriere~ cool atmosphere. I like to eat in the courtyard when the weather is nice. 

Hotel Costes~ Really beautiful, balances old world glamour with modern cool. Has a wonderful dining courtyard in the center of the restaurant. Food is excellent but the best aspect to this place is that that serve mid-day and late at night when everything else is closed. It’s great for people watching, very chic, hip, fashion crowd. 

Ralph’s~ In the Ralph Lauren mansion, this place is so beautiful. I love it in the summer to eat outside in the courtyard listening to old jazz, very romantic. 

Le Grand Véfour~ Perhaps the most recommended Paris restaurant for special occasions and it’s easy to see why from the historic and beautiful setting to the very best of Parisian table service. The food was some of the most proper, exquisite food I have ever eaten. 

Le Timbre~ Very beautiful, fresh, modern French food in a cozy unpretentious setting. 

Hotel Amour Restaurant~ I love this place for brunch! Seriously the best bread and butter in all of Paris IMO.

Le Dome du Marais~ Pretty. 

Cafe Marly~ I like to eat on the terrace here for lunch and enjoy the view of the Louvre and Eiffel Tower. They do a lot of turnover because of the location so don’t expect attentive or friendly service but they get the job done and the views are wonderful. 

Relay of the Entrecote~ These are all over Paris and it’s the same experience no matter which one you go to and they only serve one thing, steak and fries, and it’s perfect. My dream is to be able to make their steak sauce! No reservations, you just line up outside, the line moves quickly. 

114 Faubourg~ Your typical fancy Michelin Star place but I still dream about the salad I had here. 

Buvette~ Cute little spot 

Les Fines Gueules~ I have been going to this romantic little spot for years. Seasonal chalkboard menu, amazing wine cave, perfect spot for dinner during the week. 

Monsieur Bleu~Very sophisticated chic spot with an incredible view of the Eiffel Tower. A see-and-be-seen spot, lots of politicians, fashion people, and French celebrities here. 

Claus Paris~ It’s kind of the “it” breakfast place in Paris, at least the cool Americans think so. 

Du Pain et Des Idées~ a truly traditional Paris bakery that is magnifique! Real foodies talk about this place as if it is holy. 

La Gambette à Pain~ Considered one of the best bakeries in Paris, worth the journey for to taste authentic French breads made from organic ancient grains. This article explains it all. 

Auberge Bressane~ Two things, cream chicken and soufflé. 

Frenchie~ Everybody loves Frenchie. I’ve actually never been but I want to go but everyone loves it so I feel good about that. 

Le Dauphin~ Great wine bar and tapas, very foodie culture, can get really crowded late at night. 

Le Ruisseau~ I love to come here late at night, a very hole in the wall burger joint that is to die for. You can also order to go if there is a line.

Cafe Charlot~ Cute bistro, hip fashion crowd. 

Tomo~ Great Japanese bakery, wonderful Matcha as well. 

Scaramouche~ Icecream from Provence! 

Jacques Genin~ Wonderful, special chocolates made in house from the highest quality ingredients. 

For drinks only:

Bar Hemingway~ For history alone you have to do this at least once in Paris. Cocktails come with a rose in your glass and it’s just all so glamorous. 

Caveau de la Huchette ~ Amazing jazz club in a cave, perfect place to listen to live music, sip a martini and watch great dancers sway to the tunes. This was the place featured in La-La-Land.

Ballroom du Beef Club~ Underground speakeasy, the unmarked entrance is next door (to the left) of Beef Club. You go in, you go down the stairs and into a very 1920s candle lit champagne and cocktail lounge

Little Red Door~ Cute, cozy little cocktail spot with really interesting house drinks. 

Hoppy Corner~ New to Paris, great craft brew selection 

Cafe de Flore~ I’m putting this in the drinks section because I’ve done both eating and drinking here and I found the food abysmal I guess because it’s so overwhelmed with a high turnover of tourists they don’t have to try? … I think the champagne is over priced and the service is abrasive. However, I do think it is a wonderful spot to have afternoon tea if you can score a spot outside or in the window because the people-watching is fabulous and the Instagram with the Cafe de Flore logo is timeless. 

Coutume Coffee~ A nice sized coffee shop for Paris with really great cappuccinos and a real breakfast / lunch menu! 

Angelina~ Another insanely tourist spot but it has to be said, their hot chocolate is the best in the world and everyone should experience it at least once. Tip, I prefer the one at Versailles. 

L’Etoile d’Or– Supposed to be the best candy store / chocolate shop in Paris! 

Recommended places from people I trust I have not tried yet but are on my list:

Vivant (reservation) or Deivant (bar without reservation) // Petrelle // Astrance // Comice // Clover // Merci-Merci // Au Passage // The Bocca della Verita // Bistrot les Papilles // Chez La Vieille // DAROCO // Lou Lou // Papillon // Jules Verne // QUINSOU // MELT // Guy Savoy // The Grand Restaurant Jean-Francois Piege // La Scene // Mustache // Hero // Cafe Oberkampf // Cantine California //  Sushi B // JIN sushi // Yam T’cha // Okuda // Cafe de la Nouvelle Mairie// Le Verre Volé // L’etiquette // Elmer // Pontochoux // Robert et Louise // Bouillon Chartier // L’Avant Comptoir // TOMY&Co // Lasserre // La Bourse la Vie // Le Gabriel // Rech // Lapérouse // Fichon // Blé Surcé // Rose Bakery // Cibus  // Le Grand Colbert // Poliane (bakery) // Fish la Boissonerie// Wild & the Moon // Chez Omar // Ferdi // Les Enfants du Marche // Le Rigmarole

Did I miss something? I’d love your recommendations in the comments on this post

Paris in the Winter

 

As the skies wept, I walked and walked…

whisperings from the streets of Paris talk. 

Through the viewfinder framed a city of soul

a place of wonder, a world to behold.

With precision I took what I came to see…

the gifts she has given to a girl like me.

I am the Victory, I am the love

I am all that Paris can be to someone. 

-Thoughts from a birthday in Paris

{Paris in the Fall: 2016 || 2015 || 2014 || 2013 || 2012}

Paris in the Fall

Another autumn has come and gone, another year of memories with fleeting snapshots from Paris to add to my archive. I love Paris in the fall, the dynamic sky, the ease of getting lost in the day just wondering and watching, and the romantic nights when she beings to sparkle like no other. With each passing year I always reset my eyes on this city of photographic love.

“There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other. We always returned to it no matter who we were or how it was changed or with what difficulties, or ease, it could be reached. Paris was always worth it and you received return for whatever you brought to it. But this is how Paris was in the early days when we were very poor and very happy.”

― Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast

Autumn in Provence

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I like the soft and dreamy and romantic. Sometimes I make believe it, but always, I look for it in everyday life. A French afternoon dappled in light, a glowing wine glass. Smudgy and dreamy, never completely clear or harsh. The world is harsh enough, don’t you just want to live in a dream? I know I do…

When I set foot in Provence early last autumn I started myself on a new journey. Self discovery and reawakening my vision. I just wanted to experience something entirely new. I wanted to fulfill a dream to live in France. I wanted to find new challenges, new inspiration, a new way to see life. I’ve seen it through the eyes of the girl who grew up in Texas, then I saw it through the adult eyes of the woman who worked in New York. Much like the landscape outside my window, I let each chapter change me as the seasons change the vines and I hope, with spring’s new awakening, something even greater blooms.

Here are a collection of photographs from autumn in Provence~

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Snapshots from Los Angeles

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After heading out to L.A. to experience the Sound of Luxury we decided to make it a long weekend…why would you not, it was 18 degrees in New York at that time. We rented the most amazing Airbnb industrial loft in Marina del Rey to hide out in when we weren’t experiencing all the best food L.A. had to offer. Mostly, I wanted to just cruise around and play in the sun, dance in the light, and feel the ocean spray on my face. Here are snapshots from a weekend in Los Angeles shot on black & white 35mm film with the camera I first learned how to take photos with…

Los_Angeles_2016_03 While in Guatemala I discovered Swedish designer Rodebjer whom I’ve since fell in love with. Above, wearing Rodebjer’s white shirt dress that allows you to unbutton the front, back and sides in any conformation to change it from a shirt to a dress to the perfect beach coverup. Los_Angeles_2016_04 Continue reading “Snapshots from Los Angeles”

Snapshots from Amsterdam

A weekend in Amsterdam on black and white film

I have fallen in love with Amsterdam. I don’t know how it is that this stunning city has been off my radar for this long. It’s a photographer’s dream with the never-ending canals wrapping around brick lane roads and arched bridges. Everything here is wonderful: The Dutch architecture! The flowers! The stroopwafel cookie! The Van Gogh MuseumVondelpark! Bike rides! Boat rides! Shopping! and of course, amazing food. It’s a perfect place to escape to for a weekend away, charming and walkable and full of anything your heart may desire. 


10 Favorite finds in Amsterdam

Van Stapele Koekmakerij – Just imagine the best warm chocolate cookie in the world. This is that. 

Screaming Beans  – Amsterdam hands down makes the best cappuccinos and this little espresso spot is heavenly. 

Marc O’ Polo – Cool, comfy, casual clothing 

The Dylan – Gorgeous hotel, amazing afternoon “high wine” experience. 

Ron GastrobarTOPS. Some of the best modern food I’ve ever had. Get the “Surprise Egg” for dessert. 

Rijksmuseum

Boat touryou have to experience the city on the water. We did it at night with a bottle of champagne. 

Brasserie Harkema – French restaurant in an old cigar factory 

Lyppens Antique Jewelry Store – I bought an antique gold ring with dancing baby diamonds I call my champagne ring with my friend Laurel who met us in Amsterdam for all the “off the record” memories. 

Biking through Vondelpark

A weekend in Amsterdam on black and white film A weekend in Amsterdam on black and white film A weekend in Amsterdam on black and white film A weekend in Amsterdam on black and white filmA weekend in Amsterdam on black and white film Continue reading “Snapshots from Amsterdam”

Lake Como, Italy

Snapshots on black and white from from Lake Como, Italy

I have always known about the beauty of Lake Como. The way people talk about it is as if it’s this magical emerald place from a fairytale story book. Well, that’s pretty much how it looked. Taking the frequent and quick 1 hour train from Milan we made our way crursing the waters in no time. My imagination went wild looking at all the beautiful villas that climb up the mountain in an array of colors. Each turn of the boat reveals another small, cobblestone town shinning proudly, white sailboats bobbing at the mouth in a friendly wave hello. There is a calm to Lake Como. A retreat feel. Where hours are spent in a garden or at lunch with friends, the memory softened by the damp misty light. A long walk or a quiet boat ride from one little town to the next on the lake’s shore is the day’s biggest activity leaving you alone in your thoughts to imagine what it would be like to retire here and wake up everyday to sheer beauty.

 

Snapshots on black and white from from Lake Como, ItalySnapshots on black and white from from Lake Como, Italy Snapshots on black and white from from Lake Como, Italy Continue reading “Lake Como, Italy”

Milan, Italy

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After attending the MICAM trade show we had a day to explore around Milan which was my first time visiting this city. Fueled with Instagram recommendations we started out in the morning at the Duomo (how can you not) which was exceptionally beautiful. We wandered the beautiful halls of Galleria Vittorio Emanuele and Via Della Spiga. We ate gelato, dinned at Taglio, looked at old books, watched people play bocce ball, and had the most charming dinner at Al Fresco. It was an amuse-bouche of Milan, drowned in Pasta and Aperol spritz and a lost in a sea of Italian suits in the most beautiful men’s street fashion I’ve ever seen.

Here are some snapshots from our moments lost in the hallways of Milan… 

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Riding Along in my Automobile

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I feel so fortunate to get to experience  such wonderful luxuries in life and a day with Ralph Lauren is always such a pleasure. To launch their new Automotive Eyewear Collection they opened up the doors to the Classic Car Club of Manhattan to send us on a road trip out of the city, up the Hudson River to test drive some seriously cool sunnies in Ralph Lauren style. 

Since I own a little vintage convertible I decided to go modern lux… I found out the Bentley drives a little smoother than my 1982 Mercedes and you can actually hear the music on the stereo! We flew across the George Washington Bridge to my favorite local drive along the Palisades. I love that feeling when you turn off the bridge waving goodbye to Manhattan and becoming instantly enveloped in trees ans nature. We stopped for lunch a the Red Hat on the River, a converted factory building restaurant with water views and killer lobster rolls. It was a perfect way to spend a summer Friday- fast cars, fun friends and fashion.

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Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance

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It’s an interesting thing, the world of luxury cars. Growing up in Texas, luxury meant the biggest pickup truck on the road…but that was not for me. I dreamed about the cars they drove in Sabrina and what was in Jay Gatsby’s garage. I knew these cars were aesthetically special but beyond that my knowledge ended. Lord help me when it’s time to change the oil or, heaven forbid, a flat tire with the old car I just bought last fall. I’ll def be pulling one of these when that day comes…

So here I found myself at Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance as the guest of one of my favorite clients, Lincoln Motor Co. which as you know has a great history of classic motoring in America and I felt so honored to be their guest, diving into this world of antique perfection.

Here are 10 things I learned in the lap of luxury:

  1. Do not touch the cars.
  2. These car owners give a new meaning to “spotless“… the smallest particle of dust was no match.
  3. Men will totally lose any logical thought in their head when one of these cars or if any of the new concept cars is present…or even in ear shot. (yes, we could hear them driving around from our hotel room)
  4. Racetracks are LOUD. Earplugs next time… I wonder if Donna Karan makes a chic pair?
  5. You don’t know rich until you know car culture rich. Jay Leno has said “Concours is where simple millionaires come to rub shoulders with billionaires.”
  6. Once you show your automobile at the Concours, you can not enter again for 10 years.
  7. One example I found through sly eavesdropping of how much it cost to restore an antique car: $500,000.
  8. Cars in the 1920s (Duesenberg) had hidden bars stocked with crystal decanters and tumblers. I literally screamed when he opened the back of the seat to show me.
  9. The prize car at auction while I was there went for $23 Million…. a car that I can’t figure out how it would ever make it past a speed bump.
  10. After driving around Monterey Peninsula next to Lamborghinis, McLarens and classic Ferraris any other roadway in America looks disgusting… including the Hamptons. #gamechanger

~

It was an intoxicating passion to be around, and only something as perfectly beautiful as these cherished pieces of automobile history could distract from the ravishing California coast…pebble_beach_concours_d'elegance_02 pebble_beach_concours_d'elegance_03

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Snapshots of Summer

Snapshots of a photographer's life. Summer in Amagansett, NY

I always have a camera with me, it’s part of fulfilling that need inside to capture the moment: the moment in time, the moment in my life, the way we were that makes me a photographer. I collect photographs in a way of possessing all that is beautiful in the world. If the picture is made, I then have it for always and the stress of the passing moment dissipates, and it is forever with me.

After our Paris trip I took a load of film to the lab collected over the past few months. I love the rediscovery of these moments I photographed, random snapshots of time I had to have live on forever. Oh yes, I remember the feeling of my hair blowing in the wind on the long car rides to Montauk or the way the sun was glowing through the trees in a burst of golden particles on the way to Sag Harbor or how beautifully the boat’s sail danced on a pivot as the rain headed our way. I look at the photographs, like a diary of my life, a fluttering of heartbeats forever trapped in a moment in time.

Snapshots of a photographer's life. Summer in Amagansett, NY Snapshots of a photographer's life. Summer in Amagansett, NY Snapshots of a photographer's life. Summer in Amagansett, NY Snapshots of a photographer's life. Summer in Amagansett, NY

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ESME VIE

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The elevator doors opened onto the fifth floor of the historic Rafael Hotel in Paris, most notably the place where Grace Kelly & Jacqueline Kennedy called home, and there sat this beautiful woman in a blush colored dress with an explosion of satin roses cascading over her shoulder like a vision of what women looked like so many decades ago. The woman was designer Julia Voitenko and like what all modern women battle with, she was searching for a wifi signal. Not knowing who she was at that moment of meeting did not stop me from showering her with compliments and inquiring about every detail before me. When she realized I was there to see her collection, was the moment I realized the collection I was about to see was hers and into the suite we went.

She walked me through the idea of the “new wardrobe” for the modern day woman where she needs only own a few pieces that can be mixed and matched to create a variety of classic looks, one in which Julia describes as “beauty made to wear”. Pulling inspiration from the 50s and 60s the silhouettes remain timeless and flattering to all body types while being hand constructed in Italy from the most prestigious Italian silk {something we know a thing or two about}.

In suite fit for a Princess, overlooking that dreamy view of Paris, I fell in love with ESME VIE and her idea of dressing for ladies.

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